Exploring Iceland In Seven Days
Exploring Iceland in Seven Days: Our Ring Road Adventure
From August 29th to September 6th, 2024, my partner; Joshua, and I embarked on an unforgettable journey around Iceland's famed Ring Road. We only had seven days to take it all in, but with our 4x4 camper van rental, we felt confident in our plan. There are people online who argue that a week is too short to experience the full magic of Iceland, but It was, for us, just enough time to capture its essence, filling our hearts and minds with awe and leaving us with a hunger to return.
Planning the Trip
We started planning in May, keeping an eye on flight prices through Google Flights looking for the right price to match our budget. Finally, in mid-June, we booked our tickets through Iceland Air and Alaska Airlines (since Iceland Air doesn't fly directly out of Kansas City). The weather on the way to Seattle caused our flight to arrive late and because our original layover was only supposed to be an hour and a half, we missed our connection. This caused an unexpected extra long layover in Seattle, giving us an extra day to explore the city and visit Pike Place Market and indulge in some treats at Piroshky's. The staff at Four Points by Sheraton made our stay comfortable after Alaska Airlines put us up for the night.
A Smooth Arrival in Iceland
Our Flight to Iceland was filled with anticipation and we enjoyed the extra legroom we purchased ahead of time as well as the delicious snacks we bought onboard. The route shown on the App: Flight Aware, took us over the Arctic Circle and Greenland, which I found exciting. The Crew on Iceland Airlines were great at their jobs making the Flight all that much more enjoyable. I slept most of the way since it was an overnight experience. That said, It was a pleasant Flight. Upon arrival at Keflavik airport, the passport control process was friendly and efficient, and we quickly made our way to Camp Easy's office via their shuttle service. Their staff was accommodating, and after a quick video orientation, and collecting the extras we ordered, we hit the road ready for adventure.
Ring Road / Highway 1 Experience
Though we lost a day due to the unexpected layover, we adjusted our itinerary and headed towards the south coast. (We skipped the Golden Circle to make up time), instead, we chose to stock up on groceries at Bonus (A more reasonable alternative to eating out while on the road). We drove along Highway 1, also known as the Ring Road, enjoying vast landscapes of lava fields, waterfalls, and glaciers. Gas stations, at times, were infrequent, so a word to the wise: fill up whenever you can, especially when your tank is half full!
Our first campsite in Þykkvibær, run by a lovely local family (Tjaldsvæðið í Þykkvabæ's), was a highlight. Though basic, the facilities were clean and warm, and the campsite was peaceful—a perfect start to our journey. This campsite has a small box for payment. On the advice of people online, I had not exchanged any cash. I only had my credit card so I located the owner on Facebook, and she graciously came out the following day to meet with us to accept the card payment. She is a lovely lady, and I thoroughly recommend this excellent campsite! We set up near a tree windbreak and had a great night's sleep.
Waterfalls, Beaches, and Basalt Columns
The following day, we visited Skogafoss, one of Iceland's iconic waterfalls. Arriving early meant we endured fewer crowds. It was a stunning experience where we took several photographs. We then headed to Seljalandsfoss, where walking behind a waterfall is possible (my partner opted to do this; I stayed behind due to slippery footing). The misty spray made for incredible photo opportunities.
Reynisfjara, the Black Sand Beach, was another standout. Powerful waves crashed against the volcanic sand, with the backdrop of towering basalt columns. It was a mesmerizing sight. The infamous sneaker waves caught several visitors off guard while we were there and can be pretty dangerous, so beware! Read the signs and stay safe!
Glacial Beauty: Jokulsarlon and Beyond
One of the most surreal experiences of our trip was visiting Jokulsarlon, the glacier lagoon. Massive icebergs are floating peacefully in the water, a beautifully awe-inspiring experience. We booked an Amphibian boat tour in advance, which allowed us to sail among the icebergs. The eerie, misty weather made this experience even more dramatic.
East Fjords and the Power of Dettifoss
As we made our way through the East Fjords, we marveled at breathtaking views of towering mountains and tranquil fjords. One of the highlights of this stretch was Dettifoss, Europe's most powerful waterfall. The force of the water rushing into the canyon below was overwhelming, and the short hike to the viewpoint was well worth it.
We also visited Hverir, a geothermal area that felt like another planet. The cerulean bubbling pools and steaming vents made for a landscape that science fiction novels are made of, though the sulfur smell took some getting used to!
The Adventure Off the Beaten Path
We found ourselves far off the beaten path during the trip, likely during our drive north. We had veered onto a dirt mountain road full of deep potholes that steadily climbed over the hills. It was one of those roads they warn you about, the kind that a 4x4 is essential to navigate. We understood why.
The drive quickly turned into a white-knuckle experience when the road narrowed with steep drops alongside. There weren't even guard rails to speak of! To make matters worse, the fog and mist rolled in, and the winds howled. Steering a large, high-profile camper van in those conditions was brutal. At one point, we passed an abandoned car, precariously hanging over the road's edge. It was a nerve-wracking sight, and we hoped whoever had been in it made it out safely.
Thankfully, there wasn't much traffic coming in the opposite direction because I have no idea how we would have navigated that narrow road with another car trying to pass. Despite the anxiety, we pushed through, and eventually, the treacherous road gave way to the main highway again. We laughed about the anxiety later, realizing that this type of experience makes trips memorable. Driving at least one of Iceland's backroads in our trusty 4x4 made the adventure even more authentic. When they tell you that a 4x4 is required to handle these roads, they aren't exaggerating—you need one.
Northern Iceland and Whale Watching
Our journey north took us to Husavik, a quaint town famous for whale watching. This little town really resonated with me. I loved the easy pace it seemed to have. Although rough seas canceled our original tour, North Sailing quickly arranged for us to take a tour in Árskógssandur, (about 45 minutes down the road and a more protected inlet) that afternoon. Sailing aboard a traditional oak boat named Saeborg (pronounced Cyborg), we were treated to the sight of majestic humpback whales. This experience was especially moving for me, it’s been on my bucket list for a long time. The crew's knowledge and hospitality made the tour unforgettable, especially with the hot chocolate and cinnamon rolls they served as we sailed back to shore.
Our Final Days in Iceland: Camping, and Reflection
Our last few days on the Ring Road were beautifully bittersweet. After the incredible whale-watching adventure and exploring the northern part of Iceland, we stayed at the Systragil camping ground. The campground was quiet, and the neighbors spaced far apart, allowing us to fully enjoy the tranquility. We took advantage of the hot showers and settled into our van for a cozy evening. Our dinner that night was pasta with veggies. Much like the night before, reviewing the photos from our trip was the best part.
We pulled out the iPads, downloaded and sifted through the day's images, and discussed what we liked or would change in our approach to photography. It became a nightly ritual, deepening our connection to the landscapes we'd captured each time. We sat discussing our day, and it became clear that our journey would soon be ending. Sentiments of wishing it could last longer abounded, but we also had a sense of fulfillment. We talked about how we wished we could move to Iceland. Something about it, the people, and the pride they took in their land resonated deeply with us. We dreamed of what our future might hold and prepared for the next day, to enjoy our last day, on the Ring Road.
Hoping for Seals, Finding Beautiful Landscapes instead
Our next stop took us through Hvammstangi, Home to the largest seal colony in Iceland. Unfortunately, the weather wasn't in our favor. The winds howled, and rain lashed against our jackets as we ventured out. The seals remained elusive, likely far from the gusty shores we were on.
Hoping to make the most of the day, we continued towards Ytri Tunga Beach, home to a second seal colony. However, regardless of how we tried, we couldn't find them. The seals evaded us and again the rain and wind relentlessly licked at our rain and camera gear. The drive along the rugged coastline made up for the slight disappointment, as it was beautiful and full of photo ops. The fierce and furious winds made us feel alive and connected to the rawness of Iceland's landscape.
Reykjavík's Handknitting Association of Iceland and the Eco-Campsite
Once in Reykjavík, we visited the famed Handknitting Association of Iceland. We definitely splurged here, picking up sweaters to keep us warm through winters back home. Our sincerest thank you to the friendly staff who assisted us in finding the sizes and patterns we liked. Shopping here is a must if you want something extraordinary and handmade to take back home.
That afternoon, we stopped at the Eco-Campsite. This campsite was a premium way to end our camping experience, with hot showers, a place to prepare food and socialize with other campers if we desired, laundry facilities, and all the modern amenities. After several days of semi-roughing it in a pretty dope camper van, it felt great to pamper ourselves a bit. We even had time to give away the remaining groceries to fellow travelers (this is a welcome thing in campsites, as many travel tightly budgeted).
That evening, we did our final photo review, reflecting on the trip and what we learned. The journey had surpassed every expectation. Iceland captivated us with its natural beauty and the spirit reflected in the landscape, its people, and, yes, even the weather.
The Last Night: in Keflavik
Our last day began with returning the camper van to Camp Easy. The process is like their name: easy, just like when we picked it up. The employees were friendly and quick to ensure everything was in order, and before we knew it, we were on our way to our final night in Iceland. We had reserved a room at Hotel Keilir in Keflavik, and we splurged on the Junior Suite to give ourselves a well-deserved break from van life. The room was lovely, overlooking the ocean and the perfect spot to unwind. The staff even agreed to take us to the airport in the morning.
Dinner that night was Olsen Olsen, a quirky American-style diner that had some unique twists on the menu. We walked around Keflavik that evening, shopping for an extra duffle we could check with the airlines, to take home the souvenirs we collected along the way. One of our last stops was ice cream at Ísbúð Huppu, a little indulgence over an already perfect trip.
Back at the hotel, we savored a hot shower and a soft bed, which was a welcome change after a week on the road. We left the window open to let in the cool ocean breeze, making the room the perfect temperature for our final night in Iceland.
Final Thoughts
The following day, Hotel Keilir shuttled us to the airport, marking the end of an unforgettable experience. As I sit here writing this blog, I can't help but feel immense gratitude. Every moment, from the unexpected layover in Seattle to the tranquil camping spots and breathtaking natural wonders, shaped this trip into something more than we ever imagined.
We had to pivot a few times, primarily due to the initial flight delay, but our flexible mindset turned those moments into new opportunities. Our original itinerary was ambitious, and although we couldn't stick to it entirely, it was a guideline for a trip that we'll remember forever.
My advice for anyone considering a journey around the Ring Road is simple: go with the flow. Plan, but also allow for spontaneity. Iceland will reward you with surprises and moments that no itinerary could anticipate.
Safe travels, and until next time—Iceland, we'll see you again.
To see photos from our trip please access the gallery section of this website.